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FOOD
After 10 years, Chef Mavro has plenty to say but more to cook
POSTED: 01:30 a.m. HST, Nov 30, 2008
"To me, merlot with raw oyster is like to punch me in the nose."
There, in a sentence, you have George Mavrothalassitis. Passion, humor, certainty and a freewheeling use of the English language, all traits that have served him well.
FALL MENUSelections from Chef Mavro's current menu, from the top down:Big Island Abalone Ceviche, with salt cod croquettes and a red chimichurri of roasted red bell peppers Blackmore Wagyu Beef & Corned Short Ribs, with Swiss chard, frisee, a rye-bread crisp and Indian-inspired raita sauce Grilled Hamakua Mushroom & Macaroni Gratin, with shaved sunchokes, watercress and Parmesan chips. The mushrooms are jumbo aliis from the Big Island; the macaroni is made with cauliflower puree instead of cream and cheese. Chocolate Black & Tan, pastry chef Hiromi Okuda's selection of chocolate desserts. Crispy Filet of Flounder (above right), coated with rice flakes and crisped in clarified butter, with braised green papaya and broccolini in a tamarind curry sauce. CHEF MAVRO is at 1969 S. King St. in Moiliili. Call 944-4714 or visit www.chefmavro.com.
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To mark his latest achievements, we sat down for an interview recently, but it was an interview only in the loosest sense. One question was posed -- "So, 10 years, eh?" -- and Mavro pretty much took over from there. So I'm just going to let him speak, interjecting a few transitions, just as a guide to the reader. I didn't actually ask these questions. I barely did anything but laugh with him. Oh, and sample his food. (I actually get paid for this.)
Question: Most diners gravitate to chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon off of wine lists. You have no wine list, and you don't pour chardonnay or cabernet. What's the concept?
Answer: I am so sorry to see people drink cabernet sauvignon with lamb or merlot with oysters. You know, this is bad for the lamb and bad for the cabernet sauvignon. ... That's why I decide to do the wine parings. So I don't have this kind of nonsense in my restaurant. (For the record, with lamb Provence style, drink syrah; with raw oysters, sauternes or sauvignon blanc.)
If you have a $1,000 bottle of wine, bring it here and I cook for your bottle.
Q: Dinner at Chef Mavro starts at $108 for three courses with wine, and goes up to $250 a person ...
...A: People consider us very expensive, when I consider us very cheap. It was kind of a problem in the beginning; sometimes people don't realize what it takes. ... Some people open the menu, see the price -- awk! Escape! ... But I'm very stubborn and I didn't lower my prices, and they came anyway.
Q: Your menus are so carefully planned -- do you ever vamp?
A: I never have specials of the day. Because you wake up in the morning and say, "Today I am going to do onaga with raspberry coulis" -- and it doesn't work. I promise you. I tried.
Q: What of the next 10 years?
A: I am looking forward to being at the corner of King and McCully, and I hope not to be tempted to open a second restaurant.
Q: But you did try a second restaurant with Cassis, which closed this year after just 10 months.
A: Cassis was a good experience, too much fun, actually. ... I almost killed myself -- I was every lunch at Cassis and every dinner here. I ended up in the emergency room. (Mavro's wife, Donna Jung, says the problem was exhaustion and anxiety; she had feared something worse.)
I realize it was mission impossible. The room was too big. I was dreaming.
Q: Do you have other dreams?
A: Until five years ago I was still working on my perfect omelet, and sometimes I'm not sure I have it right. ... It takes a life.
"To me, merlot with raw oyster is like to punch me in the nose."
There, in a sentence, you have George Mavrothalassitis. Passion, humor, certainty and a freewheeling use of the English language, all traits that have served him well.
FALL MENUSelections from Chef Mavro's current menu, from the top down:Big Island Abalone Ceviche, with salt cod croquettes and a red chimichurri of roasted red bell peppers Blackmore Wagyu Beef & Corned Short Ribs, with Swiss chard, frisee, a rye-bread crisp and Indian-inspired raita sauce Grilled Hamakua Mushroom & Macaroni Gratin, with shaved sunchokes, watercress and Parmesan chips. The mushrooms are jumbo aliis from the Big Island; the macaroni is made with cauliflower puree instead of cream and cheese. Chocolate Black & Tan, pastry chef Hiromi Okuda's selection of chocolate desserts. Crispy Filet of Flounder (above right), coated with rice flakes and crisped in clarified butter, with braised green papaya and broccolini in a tamarind curry sauce. CHEF MAVRO is at 1969 S. King St. in Moiliili. Call 944-4714 or visit www.chefmavro.com. |
To mark his latest achievements, we sat down for an interview recently, but it was an interview only in the loosest sense. One question was posed -- "So, 10 years, eh?" -- and Mavro pretty much took over from there. So I'm just going to let him speak, interjecting a few transitions, just as a guide to the reader. I didn't actually ask these questions. I barely did anything but laugh with him. Oh, and sample his food. (I actually get paid for this.)
Question: Most diners gravitate to chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon off of wine lists. You have no wine list, and you don't pour chardonnay or cabernet. What's the concept?
Answer: I am so sorry to see people drink cabernet sauvignon with lamb or merlot with oysters. You know, this is bad for the lamb and bad for the cabernet sauvignon. ... That's why I decide to do the wine parings. So I don't have this kind of nonsense in my restaurant. (For the record, with lamb Provence style, drink syrah; with raw oysters, sauternes or sauvignon blanc.)
If you have a $1,000 bottle of wine, bring it here and I cook for your bottle.
Q: Dinner at Chef Mavro starts at $108 for three courses with wine, and goes up to $250 a person ...
...A: People consider us very expensive, when I consider us very cheap. It was kind of a problem in the beginning; sometimes people don't realize what it takes. ... Some people open the menu, see the price -- awk! Escape! ... But I'm very stubborn and I didn't lower my prices, and they came anyway.
Q: Your menus are so carefully planned -- do you ever vamp?
A: I never have specials of the day. Because you wake up in the morning and say, "Today I am going to do onaga with raspberry coulis" -- and it doesn't work. I promise you. I tried.
Q: What of the next 10 years?
A: I am looking forward to being at the corner of King and McCully, and I hope not to be tempted to open a second restaurant.
Q: But you did try a second restaurant with Cassis, which closed this year after just 10 months.
A: Cassis was a good experience, too much fun, actually. ... I almost killed myself -- I was every lunch at Cassis and every dinner here. I ended up in the emergency room. (Mavro's wife, Donna Jung, says the problem was exhaustion and anxiety; she had feared something worse.)
I realize it was mission impossible. The room was too big. I was dreaming.
Q: Do you have other dreams?
A: Until five years ago I was still working on my perfect omelet, and sometimes I'm not sure I have it right. ... It takes a life.
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